TE Mod Series – Parts, Parts and More Parts

So today marked the first batch of parts that have arrived.  Obviously, I’ll take more pictures as these items get intimately introduced to my TE Stick, but I wanted to show you what all is going to eventually make it into the stick before I start work. Here’s pics & descriptions of all the functional parts:

6 x 30mm Sanwa OBSF-30 Buttons
Black Rimmed w/ Dark Blue Button
($2.95 each)
These will be the 6 buttons that replace the stock white 6 buttons on the face of the stick.  I was planning on buying black rimmed, with gray buttons for the stock “All 3” buttons.  Ironically, that’s what came stock on the stick.  I had always thought they were flat black.  Like most of these parts, they really aren’t a step up in quality, and were mostly purchased for the aesthetic.
2 x 24mm Sanwa OBSF-24 Buttons
Dark Blue
($2.50 each)
These two buttons will replace the stock white start and back buttons on the back of the stick.  I would’ve mimicked the black rim from the purchased face buttons, but the 24mm versions aren’t offered in anything other then solid colors. A little over the top to replace these for such a small aesthetic, but I’m already putting enough into the stick, might as well keep it up.
35mm Sanwa Ball Top LP-35
Dark Blue
(on sale – $2.95)
The TE stick comes stock with a Sanwa JLF joystick, so functionally this part was perfect in my book.  All that I needed was a new ball top to help match the design aesthetic. It also comes with a square gate as standard fare, and I’ve been playing with a square gate since I picked up SF4. It just feels the most natural to me.
Toodles Chimp Printed Circuit Board
Assembled w/o USB
Here’s the real meat of my parts order.  The Chimp board is a PS3/PC Printed Circuit Board (or PCB) that will successfully bridge the gap from 360 to dual-mod.  It’s a fairly new breed of Cthulhu PCB, that includes the Imp switch normally needed to swap between platforms.  In lay terms, that means that the board is smart enough to detect which system it’s plugged into without the need for a manual switch.  The assembled version will save me some soldering time, and the lack of USB is the preferred model for dual modding because of how the existing USB connections need to be made.  My next post will be on the actual wiring of the board, so I’ll go into more detail there. (and yes, I realize they sent it to me unassembled – they’re getting a request for a partial refund).

All parts were ordered via http://lizardlick.com/ – a fantastic website for ordering a wide variety of arcade parts. (even if they did mess up my order).

The author Scott, spends too much time talking about games, and not enough time playing them.

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